“If you’re a ‘pizza man’ in New York, a slice is made with All Trumps flour and Grande cheese, and it’s baked at 550 degrees for 10 minutes,” Brown says. “And we’re not. We’re none of those things.” In fact, Brown says, “if you got out the textbook and looked for the definition, we would be somewhere between New York and Neapolitan.” Technicalities, perhaps, that would fly over the head of anyone who’s not a “pizza man.”
Nor does Andy’s always keep things simple: In addition to sausage and peppers or classic margherita, the slices waiting to be served up include a pepperoni pie finished with burrata and Mike’s Hot Honey, while the Diavolo is topped with spicy pepperoni, Calabrian chilies, fresh basil and whipped ricotta.
Andy’s Pizza was originally developed to be sold from a 700-square-foot shop, so the focus was on selling slices to be eaten somewhere else. Even as the number of locations has expanded — there are now six, including an outpost across the street from 9:30 Club and one sharing space with Atlas Brew Works at its Navy Yard brewery — Andy’s has maintained its low-key counter-service focus, and nurtured one of the area’s top craft beer programs, pairing pies with drafts and cans from top regional producers. It might not be a $2 slice from a hole in the wall in the West Village, but there’s a reason it’s one of the area’s go-to pizzas. Six area locations. eatandyspizza.com. Slices, $4-$5.50.
Other by-the-slice destinations
Slice & Pie, located in a tiny storefront at the corner of 14th Street and Florida Avenue NW, offers a similarly classic, foldable slice, with perfectly charred pepperoni cups, thanks to Neapolitan pizza guru Giulio Adriani. (It also sells Detroit-style slices.) 2221 14th St. NW. sliceandpie.com. Slices, $4-$5.50.
Wiseguy Pizza has earned a reputation as D.C.’s answer to a New York slice shop over the last decade, even if a sale to Thompson Hospitality — the owner of Matchbox and Big Buns — raised eyebrows last year. Still, the pizza remains much the same: thin, crackery crust, heated or reheated in deck ovens. Beyond the classic margherita and heavy-on-the-toppings supreme styles, Wiseguy offers unusual combinations, including Nashville hot chicken and paneer tikka. Four area locations. wiseguypizza.com. Slices, $3.99-$4.79.
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